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D7 7-pin connector postings
This is a collection of DAT-Heads postings concerning the D7 7-pin
connector.
re: secrets of the d3 ;-)
Bryan Levin (blevin@cisco.com) Fri, 14 Jan 94
DAT-Heads Digest #770, Volume #1 Fri, 14 Jan 94 15:12:17 EST
------------------------------
From: Bryan Levin
Subject: re: secrets of the d3 ;-)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 94 12:06:10 PST
AGAIN, SKIP THIS NOTE IF YOU DON'T OWN A D3, ETC.
Norman P. Tracy ALSO writes:
>
>The mystery connector
>---------------------
>I know I'm suppost to shell out another $125 for the proper
>adapters but I don't wanna, that and I'm just terminally
>curious. So does your manual list the pinouts on the
>sorta-'D' connector used for digital I/O and remote control?
Ok, here's what I can find on connector CN901:
color pin # function (bryan's comments)
=============================== -------------------------
BRN 1 Transmit spdif coax output
RED 2 +5v
ORG 3 digital/analog that small switch on the conn/cable
4
GRN 5 Receive spdif coax input
BLU 6
VIO 7 "sircs" serial line protocol - no info yet ;-(
BLK (shield) ground
Now, I don't see any physical mapping of these pin numbers, but looking thru
some old dat-heads mail, I found this REAL NEAT mod you could do to your
existing optical i/o connector (usually supplied with the d3 - optional with
the d7, I'm told). First, an extract from the original posting:
[begin of original posting]
This cable mod gives you an electrical interface for your D3 while
leaving the optical intact. Hint: You have a CableFromHell[tm] when
you are finished.
Disclaimer: I use this all the time at home, but note that the levels
you will get out of your D3 are higher voltage than S/PDIF. Neither my
Aiwa or my Marantz (an Aiwa in disguise) minds the higher levels. Your
mileage may wary. You won't have an S/PDIF coaxial interface; you will have
a CarlsHack[tm] coaxial interface.
1. Remove the plastic casing from the D3 end of the cable
2. Look at the bottom side. You'll see something like:
digital output connections
|
V
+-+-+--+--------------+
optical output | | | o| ________ |
=================|=|=| o| | o o o \ |
| | |oo| | o o o o| |] digital/analog switch
=================|=|=|o | |________| |
optical input | | |o | |
+-+-+--+--------------+
^
|
digital input connections
3. Take a coax cable, like an RCA-RCA cable, and strip one end, separating
the shield and the center conductor. Carefully solder the center wire to
the bottom of the three digital output connections. Solder the shield to
either the top of the three connections, or the metal shield that surrounds
the guts of the podule. Now you have digital out :-)!
4. Hack the plastic casing to make room for all three cables coming out,
or use shrink wrap or potting compound or whatever, and reassemble the
podule.
[end of original posting]
Ok, here's some of Bryan's notes on the above:
The view presented is from the PIN side of the connector. Remember, connect
the inner conductor of 75ohm shielded cable to the THIRD pin, counting from
top to bottom, as the picture is oriented.
Yes indeed, the voltage output is NOT standard spdif. The standard specs 0.5v
DC peak-to-peak. This output is more line TTL levels; pulses ride from 0v to
5v. But, I took a dare, and hooked up to my sony dtc-670 home deck. NO
PROBLEM! What joy ;-)
In practice, I'd like to convert this to the proper 0.5v levels. Also, I ran
from batteries while testing, since I didn't want to risk any bad ground
loops. I'd probably recommend an isolation transformer (perhaps like the
Pulse brand units that Bob Ramstad ships with his DSD bit-twiddler kit). Or,
at the very least, if you can't locate the xformers, use some capacitors to at
least block any DC. One benefit, is that the positive-going output voltage
level would then be [effectively] cut in half, since the waveform would be
transformed to CENTER at 0V dc (ie, -2.5v -> +2.5v rather than 0 -> 5v). I
don't know what most decks use to buffer the input of spdif connections;
perhaps there's -already- a transformer, for safety. But, the levels aren't
all that much higher than the standard, and it -does- seem to work. Of
course, the jitter (etc) may be higher than an 'official' spdif output,
blessed by sony, but initial listening tests show no problems with recorded
signals using this hack (method).
On opening the plastic casing of the optical cable, it took me quite a while
to figure out how it's done. First of all, the two plastic shells that
surround the gold d-sub-like connector DO, in fact, come off without
soldering. It just takes quite a bit of pushing/pulling to do it. [Of
course, I spent over an hour trying to desolder things ;-) ] The plastic
shell that has the words 'digital analog' on it, comes off first - just pry it
off with a small screwdriver.
You'll then see a white metal shield that is soldered toward one end. I'm not
completely sure if you NEED to unsolder it, but not getting the bottom plastic
shell to come off easily, I began unsoldering - figuring that this metal
shield would come off, and expose some goodies, and I'd go from there. No
luck - there's nothing exposed under that tin shield, that you would care
about. But, I wasn't able to get the bottom plastic shell off until I
'worked' that tin casing quite a bit. Perhaps it was all my desoldering and
'working it' that loosened the bottom plastic shell. I've only done this mod
to one cable unit, so I can't say how typical this experience was.
In any case, once the bottom shell is removed, the graphic (above) should look
familiar. I used very thin 75ohm cable from Belden (stock #9221 = "100 feet,
#30 AWG wire, .011 inch PVC outer jacket, .097 inch outer diameter"). This is
like rg174 coax, but for 75ohm use. Very nice stuff. And, because its very
thin, you can actually reassemble the plastic shells most of the way. You may
not be able to reinstall the plastic 'analog/digital' switch header, but I
left the switch in the 'digital' position, anyway. Some electrical tape wrap,
or hot-melt glue will bond the two shells together, and VOILA - you have a
useable, albeit, out-of-spec, digital coax out for the d3 (probably d7 as
well).
=======
Thanks to the original author/poster (sjeck@isi.com "Steve Jeck") for the
idea/inspiration.
BTW, I'd like to hear from other brave folks who have done this.
Enjoy!
--
|| || Bryan Levin
|||| |||| Software Engineer
..:||||||:..:||||||:.. 1525 O'Brien Drive
c i s c o S y s t e m s Menlo Park, CA 94026
Re: Digital cable to connect two TCD-D7s?
Bryan Levin (blevin@cisco.com) Sun, 27 Mar 94
DAT-Heads Digest #847, Volume #1 Sun, 27 Mar 94 16:12:13 EST
------------------------------
From: Bryan Levin
Subject: Re: Digital cable to connect two TCD-D7s?
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 94 22:37:30 PST
Jake Roberts writes:
>
>Does anyone know if Sony has such a cable? Beyond that, does anyone know
>if the funky connector is available from Sony or anyone else, so that I
>could make my own cable? Any other info is also welcome.
To my knowledge, sony doesn't make a 'dubbing' cable to connect d3/d7's to
same.
They do sell 2 cables:
- opto tx, opto rx (black fiber cables, ending in male Toslink plugs)
- coax rx (ending in an orange male RCA plug)
Now, you can't even connect _these_ directly to each other. But, if you don't
mind a bit of hacking (yup, had to work that in here :-) ) you could ADD a
coax out to the fiber in/out cable. Ie, convert the first cable to:
- opto tx, coax tx, opto rx
Or, create a brand new cable, just for digital (coax) out. (See the 'Hack'
instructions, below).
Then, its just a matter of connecting coax tx -> coax rx.
The catch: both cables are pretty expensive. The opto cable costs over $50
or so, as does the 'orange' coax rx cable ;-(
'Hack' instructions:
As to whether the two sony's could talk -directly- to each other (ie, using
their 'private' physical protocol, rather than the 'public' spdif physical
protocol), this -might- be possible. I tried running the two decks together,
but without sucess (so far). However, using the sony-standard 'orange' cable
as the receiving end, and running a transmit wire pair directly out of a
source d3, -does- work. Ie, you can build a digital out, without sacrificing
the opto cable. Here's the pinout and summary:
View from the surface side (ie, 'user' side) of the d3 or d7, with pin #'s
+------+
7 | o o | 1
6 | o o | 2
5 | o o | 3
\ o | 4
\_____+
To create a digital out, run a wire between pins 6 and 3. This simulates the
switch that turns on the 'digital in' LCD indicator. (Not needed for
transmitting, but nice to have, since it indicates a digital transfer on the
display.) The digital signal is sent out on pin 1, with respect to ground
(pin 6). I used 2 capacitors, for DC isolation:
.01 uF
+-----------||--> ground
|
| o o-----||--> tx
+--o\ o .01 uF
o \o
o
BTW, the sony cable order # is 9-900-667-01.
Enjoy!
--
|| || Bryan Levin
|||| |||| Software Engineer
..:||||||:..:||||||:.. 1525 O'Brien Drive
c i s c o S y s t e m s Menlo Park, CA 94026
Re: Sony strikes (out) again...
Jim Ferr (ferr@apple.com) Wed, 14 Dec 94
DAT-Heads Digest #129, Volume #2 Wed, 14 Dec 94 16:12:15 EST
------------------------------
From: Jim Ferr
Subject: Re: Sony strikes (out) again...
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 1994 08:55:07 -0500
> I talked to the guy on the phone for a while, and it seems that a
> lot of deadheads call about these cables :) I wonder why that is...
Ha, that's really funny because we are "DAT-heads", not "deadheads". There
is a slight difference in meaning there which I won't delve into. ;)
> I then asked him about the existence of any service manuals for the
> TCD-D7, such that I might be able to hack my own cable/interface...
> He pulled up a number - 9-957-873-11. He claimed that this has
> technical details on the proprietary connector. Can anyone verify
> this? I bought one in any case (only $10)...
I have the TCD-D7 service manual, but it doesn't have any technical details
about the RK-DA10 cable. I'll be calling Sony here this morning to find out
if they have any description for that part number. (Here's hoping... I've
been trying to get info on the RK-DA10 from Sony for months but it's like
pulling teeth.)
> Next, can someone verify the following D7 pinout: ....
Here is what I have on that. I have made up the transmit cable and it
works. Receive is more difficult; the RK-DA10 has a small circuit board in
it. With thanks to original authors:
The RK-DA10 cable from Sony functions as an S/PDIF digital-in cable for the
TCD-D3 and D7. If you want digital-out, all you need is an RCA cable and
two capacitors, plus a 7-pin male connector that plugs into the D3 or D7,
or, as one poster said, a couple of staples! Here are the specs on the
digital out cable:
View from the surface side (ie, 'user' side) of the D3 or D7, with pin #'s
+------+
7 | o o | 1
6 | o o | 2
5 | o o | 3
\ o | 4
\_____+
Cable diagram:
.01 uF cap
+-----------||--------> ground --(from pin 6) --> RCA sleeve
|
| o o-----||--------> tx -----(from pin 1) --> RCA tip
+--o o .01 uF cap
o o
o
The digital signal is sent out on pin 1, with respect to ground (pin 6).
Two caps are used for DC isolation.
Pinout description, from the TCD-D7 Service Manual:
1 = TX
2 = REG +4/+5V
3 = DIG/ANA
4 = POWTRG
5 = RX
6 = GND
7 = SIRCS
---
Jim Ferr, Apple Canada Inc.
ferr@apple.com Standard disclaimer applies.
d7 cables revealed, help grovel #2
(phopely@eniac.seas.upenn.edu) Mon, 15 May 95
DAT-Heads Digest #300, Volume #2 Mon, 15 May 95 10:12:06 EDT
------------------------------
From: phopely@eniac.seas.upenn.edu
Subject: d7 cables revealed, help grovel #2
Date: Mon, 15 May 1995 00:08:10 -0400
Hey!,
Below is the circuit I've been using to make my d7 talk and hear s/pdiffy
for a few months now. I release it now because I feel that it has undergone
sufficient testing. It's kind of a long message, but I figure it will help
the d7ers out there get to copying, as well as helping the list as a whole
by cutting down on questions about d7 cable construction.
I don't recommend building this to the faint of heart... But if you've got
some experience with circuit construction and are at witts end waiting for
sony to deliver your cables, you might consider this alternative.
I've experienced no problems in using it, so I think it won't cause
your d7 to explode... but:
DISCLAIMER: Neither I nor my employer are responsible in any way for anything
that happens to you or your deck(s) as a result of attempting to build
the circuit described in this message. Use at your own risk.
The TTL<->s/pdif coax circuit is a subset of the circuit used for
the Zefiro Acoustics ZA1 board by Greg Hanssen (email: hanssen@netcom.com
for more information). This board is an exceptional piece of hardware which
allows for control and manipulation of s/pdiffy data, and can use dma
on a 386 or 486 to allow scms-removing copying operations to occur
"in the background" while you're playing doom or descent or working for
that matter.
I wire-wrapped my prototype together. It's rather fragile, but I don't care
because I'm really cautious about moving it around...
As for the "proprietary 7-pin connector," I fashioned my own using
the legs of some random capacitors and resistors for "pins," and using
a blob of epoxy to hold these "pins" together. I used shielded cabling for
the interconnecting cable between the d7 and the perf board onto which
I wrapped the circuit.
I don't have a source for these parts (I got them from greg when I placed my
order for a za1; he has stated that he is NOT INTERESTED in selling KITS or
PARTS for this so don't bother him about that) -- I'd recommend looking at
component catalogs for ordering information, or talking with one of your
friends that is into electrical engineering who owns component catalogs :)
If there is sufficient interest, I'll track down some suppliers and maybe
organize a group purchase or something.
Here are the components you need:
National Semiconductors DS8921... The heart of the beast...
2 transformer modules (for coax i/o isolation) part label PE65612
a 374 ohm resistor
a 91 ohm resistor
a 75 ohm resistor
a 0.1uF capacitor
a 0.01uF capacitor
2 rca-style coaxial female jacks
... and for optical connections (convert between optical signal and TTL):
fiber-in module part label GP1F31R
fiber-out module part label GP1F31T
... not to mention wire, perf-board, patience, etc.
Here are the important pins for the d7 connector:
1 - TX
2 - REG +4/+5V
3 - DIG/ANA
5 - RX
6 - GND
Here is a description of the optical modules, from the point of view of
facing the module:
Receiver (GP1F31R):
+-------+
| |
| +---+ |
| | | |
| \___/ |
| |
+-------+
| | |
| | |
| | |
In GND
Vcc
Transmitter (GP1F31T):
+-------+
| |
| +---+ |
| | | |
| \___/ |
| |
+-------+
| | |
| | |
| | |
Vcc Out
GND
Below is the d7 liberty circuit "external" connection list.
The left hand side of an entry contains the D7 connector label.
The right hand side lists the appropriate lines to which connections
are to be made.
Optical connector component connections are listed in square brackets ("[]s").
Below each entry may be construction comments.
REG +4/+5V -------------------> DS8921 (Pin 1, Vcc)
[GP1F31R Vcc]
[GP1F31T Vcc]
Don't really need a distribution bus if you're wire wrapping this.
GND --------------------------> DS8921 (Pin 4, Gnd)
internal coax output circuit connection
[GP1F31R GND]
[GP1F31T GND]
As above...
RX ---------------------------> DS8921 (Pin 2, RI)
[GP1F31R In]
Want a switch to select between receiving source - either from
the "coaxial" circuit or from the optical module.
TX ---------------------------> DS8921 (Pin 3, DI)
[GP1F31T Out]
Probably don't want a switch here - output to both coax and optical
simultaneously.
DIG/ANA ----------------------> A toggle switch, between open circuit
and ground. When switch is closed to ground,
"enables" digital input on d7 (an "active low
signal").
Here is a rough ascii schematic of the "coaxial" s/pdif<->TTL circuit:
+---------+ +--+---------+ +---+
| | | < | +-----+ || | |
Vcc -+1 8+-----+ > 75 ohm +----+4 2+----||--------------. |
| | < | | || 0.01 uF | |
RX -+2 7+--------+--------------+3 1+--+ +-+-+
| | +-----+ | | RCA Female
| | PE65612 +-----------------+ coax input
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
TX -+3 6+------+
| | <
GND -+4 5+-- > 374 ohm +---+
| | > || +-----+ | |
+---------+ +--------+-------||-----------+2 4+-------. |
DS8921 < || 0.1 uF | | | |
> 91 ohm +----+1 3+--+ +-+-+
< | +-----+ | | RCA Female
+-------+-------+ PE65612 +----+ coax output
|
|
GND
and that's it for the other one...
Total parts shouldn't cost more than $3o.
Note that it's very easy to expand this circuit into a veritable d7 getaway
box. Indeed I have had 3 d7s hooked up at once, one transmitting and two
receiving. Using 2 inverters from a single inverter chip (like the 7404)
to allow for "fanning," you can probably fan out signals to 7 more d7s and
another set of inverters which you can fan out again and again into an infinite
unbroken chain of inverters and d7s...
And now my grovels for help:
1. Where can I get the documentation for Sony "repair kit" X-3367-352-1
(service bulletin #358, source code CSA-13) - the fix for the infamous
transport mechanism problem that occurs with so many Sony home decks? I've
managed to order the "repair kit" from the Sony parts hq in Missouri, but
the guy who fielded my call couldn't get me the documentation...
2. Would someone recommend a good place in the Philadelphia PA area where I
can get sony stuff repaired?
3. Has anyone out there performed the "tape path adjustment" on a d7, as
detailed in section 1-2 of supplement 1 to the TCD-D7/D7K Service Manual?
I'd like to learn to do this myself, but have a few questions.
4. Would someone supply me with a description of the MDR-ED7 remote control
unit? As in the physical layout of unit and buttons on the control panel?
A little ascii diagram and description would do very well :) I think that
these might be pretty easy to build.
Your deck help will aid the philly trees! Well, I guess that's about it
for now...
See you all on summer tour... Please be safe!
:) ,
Phil
Heiko Purnhagen 05-jul-96
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